Up The Road

Designing the New Madone

Starting almost a year ago, I began designing the new Madone with Tyler Pilger by taking a close look at the frameset’s centerline geometry. Based on lots of rider feedback, field trips (road riding in Italy is great!), and years of experience riding and fitting riders on their bikes, we designed the frame geometry for a full range of sizes. I designed and oversaw the construction of several generations of aluminum prototypes in Trek’s Waterloo welding facility (Trek’s advanced laser mitering capabilities and flexible manufacturing staff make quick experimental frames easy), putting miles on each generation riding back-to-back comparisons with other bikes.

2008_trek_new_madone_stack_and_reac
Finally, we settled on a range of sizes driven by the frame’s stack and reach dimensions. Frame stack and reach aren’t new; Dan Empfield has championed the concept for years. Seat position is pretty adjustable these days, but stems are a little less so. Because the rider touches the bike at “feet, seat and hands,” and since the new Madone’s sloping top tube makes the traditional way of measuring frame size less meaningful to riders, designing around frame stack and reach makes perfect sense.

In the end the new centerline geometry is essentially the same as the current, well-liked Madone’s, so if you ride a current Trek road bike you’ll find you fit the same on a new Madone of the same size. In fact most will find they fit better: For example, during the research phase, Tyler found most riders have plenty of head set spacers under the stem. As a result the new Madone comes in two Fits: "Pro Fit", with a standard head tube length to match the current Madone's hand height, and the new "Performance Fit", with a longer head tube (+30 mm) to permit a higher hand position (or the removal of some spacers).

Questions, comments, observations welcome!

Comments

Patrick

I love the Pro vs Performance viewpoint. It sounds like the Performance geometry will fit nicely between the Pilot and the Madone Pro. Thanks for doing the time consuming research. I won't have to listen to the younger guys give me a hard time about all of my spacers under the stem.

DL Byron

Hello from Bike Hugger! We just posted about the launch and look forward to seeing and riding the new Madone!

John

Hi, Is stack measured to the top of the headtube, not including any headset parts or spacers? If so, is this the lowest height that the stem can be positioned or do you need to use a minimum amount of spacers (i.e, the tapered one just above the headtube)? Thanks.

Damon

Hi John,

The "Frame Stack" point is measured on the surface of the top of the frame's head tube, excluding head set parts and spacers. It's almost the lowest point you could install a stem, except that there're a few millimeters of bearing and headset split ring (and usually a top cap of some kind) above the frame.

Structurally, the top cap is optional (tapered or otherwise); it's there as a dust shield to extend the life of the upper headset bearing. If you need bars so low that you're thinking of leaving it off, maybe consider the next smaller frame size.

Damon

jeff haase

you made the comment that your saddle position is more adjustable than your stem. Typically a fitting is done by setting the saddle height and for and aft. then adjust the stem to make the reach correct. It seems like one could just as easily make the statement that you have more adjustability in the stem because the relationship to the hip and foot has huge factor in power output and just as much to do with weight distribution for performance in cornering as a stem.

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